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lbs to Psi
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Dear convert-me.com forum visitors,
Our forum has been available for many years. In September 2014 we decided to switch it to read-only mode. Month after month we saw less posts with questions and answers from real people and more spam posts. We were spending more and more resources cleaning the spam until there were less them 1 legitimate message per 100 spam posts. Then we decided it's time to stop.
All the posts in the forum will be available and searchable. We understand there are a lot of useful information and we aren't going to remove anything. As for the new questions, you can always ask them on convert-me.com FaceBook page
Thank you for being with us and sorry for any inconveniences this could caused.
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
lbs to Psi
by seth » Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:35 am
I want to recharge my air conditioner and I am racking my brain to find a conversion chart that coverts lbs to psi the factory fill of the air conditioner was 1.25 lb but the pressure guage that came with the recharge kit reads in psi so could someone tell me what 1.25 = in psi thank for the help
- seth
Re:
by guest » Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:28 pm
Guest wrote:hi...I had the same problem, but I think I got.... lbs is actually: Pounds (Lbs) per Square Inch (PSI) .... so, they are probably using lbs as psi.
no, I think lb (pound) is a unit of mass (sometimes called weight) and psi (pounds per square inch), so if you get lbs/in2 (Inch square I mean) it's same like psi, or lbs/in2=psi
- guest
Re: Re:
by robertR0931 » Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:42 pm
guest wrote:Guest wrote:hi...I had the same problem, but I think I got.... lbs is actually: Pounds (Lbs) per Square Inch (PSI) .... so, they are probably using lbs as psi.
no, I think lb (pound) is a unit of mass (sometimes called weight) and psi (pounds per square inch), so if you get lbs/in2 (Inch square I mean) it's same like psi, or lbs/in2=psi
I am thinking this is the closest to the real scenario. Pounds is a unit of mass and PSI is also a unit of mass (it measures how much of something is IN something else) so the lbs/in2 would work to do this conversion
- robertR0931
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:24 am
Re: lbs to Psi
by guest » Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:49 am
i know this is a little late but i just got in town.
the capacity required in your air conditioner unit is an amount. that is the maximum that should be put in. the can which you are probably using if hooked up to a set of air conditioner gauges, which you need to charge the a.c., will read approximately 70 to 75 lbs. depending on the temperature.
THE CAPACITY OF THE A.C. IS AN AMOUNT, NOT PSI WHEN THE A.C. IS OPERATING. you need a set of air condition gauges from here. charging an a.c. unit that uses "134" freon will not have a sight glass to judge when it is full, you use the gauge psi. from the the low and high side gauges on the set. low side is blue and high side is red. i am talking about pressure readings when i say low and high side.
to check the charge in the unit you need SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES. yes for you pro's i am going overboard on these items but "134" freon when released to the atmosphere is -17 DEGREES BELOW ZERO DEGREES at the exit point of the can or steel bottle container. the bottle container is about the size of the butane bottle on a patio grill. now hook up your "134" gauge set and start your vehicle, turn the a.c on and set it to max cold and with it on recirculate. set the fan speed on medium. for AUTO a.c. disregard. close all the doors and windows except the drivers window, leave it about 1/2 inch open.
now you start watching the gauges for psi. readings. let the vehicle run for about 20 minutes to let the inside cool down some. if the low side reading are 0 psi. to 20 psi. then add a little freon to get the unit cooling some. when you open the valve to add freon the pressure will rise. leave the valve open 2 minutes and then close the valve. the pressure on the low side will drop. if it drops to zero on the low and high side then you have a very serious leak. if not after 5 minutes then add some more freon. your primary psi. reading at this point is the low side. keep an eye on the high side to make sure it is not going too high. "too high" is 350-375 to 500. if the high side is going to 400 psi. plus then you have a restriction in the system. STOP.
at idle the pressure readings you are looking for are 40 to 45 low side, 225 to 300 high side. when you have attained this then position the gauges so that you can read them sitting in the drivers seat. sit in the driver's seat and close the door. raise the engine rpm to 1500 to 2000 rpm and check the gauge readings. add "134" until you have attained 32 to 37 psi. low side and 200 to 275 psi. high side. when you have attained this shut down the vehicle and let it set at least 30 minutes to let the "134" stabilize then restart and recheck readings to attain desired readings.
hook up of "134" freon gauges are suppose to be idiot proof but i have found idiots to be extremely intelligent in their own expertise, so i really am not insulting anyone.
if you cannot attain or do any of the above then find a "pro" that CARES.
NONE OF THE ABOVE APPLIES TO R12, R22, ANY OTHER FREON NUMBERS, REFRIGERATORS, WINDOW A.C., COMMERCIAL BUILDING, OR ANY OTHER AIR CONDITIONERS THAT I HAVE NOT THOUGHT OF OR EVEN KNOW OF.
the capacity required in your air conditioner unit is an amount. that is the maximum that should be put in. the can which you are probably using if hooked up to a set of air conditioner gauges, which you need to charge the a.c., will read approximately 70 to 75 lbs. depending on the temperature.
THE CAPACITY OF THE A.C. IS AN AMOUNT, NOT PSI WHEN THE A.C. IS OPERATING. you need a set of air condition gauges from here. charging an a.c. unit that uses "134" freon will not have a sight glass to judge when it is full, you use the gauge psi. from the the low and high side gauges on the set. low side is blue and high side is red. i am talking about pressure readings when i say low and high side.
to check the charge in the unit you need SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES. yes for you pro's i am going overboard on these items but "134" freon when released to the atmosphere is -17 DEGREES BELOW ZERO DEGREES at the exit point of the can or steel bottle container. the bottle container is about the size of the butane bottle on a patio grill. now hook up your "134" gauge set and start your vehicle, turn the a.c on and set it to max cold and with it on recirculate. set the fan speed on medium. for AUTO a.c. disregard. close all the doors and windows except the drivers window, leave it about 1/2 inch open.
now you start watching the gauges for psi. readings. let the vehicle run for about 20 minutes to let the inside cool down some. if the low side reading are 0 psi. to 20 psi. then add a little freon to get the unit cooling some. when you open the valve to add freon the pressure will rise. leave the valve open 2 minutes and then close the valve. the pressure on the low side will drop. if it drops to zero on the low and high side then you have a very serious leak. if not after 5 minutes then add some more freon. your primary psi. reading at this point is the low side. keep an eye on the high side to make sure it is not going too high. "too high" is 350-375 to 500. if the high side is going to 400 psi. plus then you have a restriction in the system. STOP.
at idle the pressure readings you are looking for are 40 to 45 low side, 225 to 300 high side. when you have attained this then position the gauges so that you can read them sitting in the drivers seat. sit in the driver's seat and close the door. raise the engine rpm to 1500 to 2000 rpm and check the gauge readings. add "134" until you have attained 32 to 37 psi. low side and 200 to 275 psi. high side. when you have attained this shut down the vehicle and let it set at least 30 minutes to let the "134" stabilize then restart and recheck readings to attain desired readings.
hook up of "134" freon gauges are suppose to be idiot proof but i have found idiots to be extremely intelligent in their own expertise, so i really am not insulting anyone.
if you cannot attain or do any of the above then find a "pro" that CARES.
NONE OF THE ABOVE APPLIES TO R12, R22, ANY OTHER FREON NUMBERS, REFRIGERATORS, WINDOW A.C., COMMERCIAL BUILDING, OR ANY OTHER AIR CONDITIONERS THAT I HAVE NOT THOUGHT OF OR EVEN KNOW OF.
- guest
More info
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1